A Watch For Everyone

Started by the baby of an Italian shoemaker who loves watches and two eco-smart entrepreneurs with a crush on the environment, WEwood fashions wooden timepieces from mostly scrap-wood and uses state-of-the-art Miyota movements for the guts, resulting in a unique watch that's good-looking, earth-friendly, and splash-proof.

The first timepiece was designed in Florence, Italy (2010) and with the widespread craving for newstalgia and eco-friendly ethos, WEwood hit the scene as the avant-garde approach to sophisticated sustainability. A few months later, WEwood opened a branch in Los Angeles, CA and teamed up with tree-planting-partner, American Forests.

With this pact, the goal is to help restore Mother Nature, one watch at a time, by planting a tree for every WEwood watch purchased. In the first three months, WEwood planted 5,000 trees with American Forests, and sets challenging targets for 2011 and beyond. According to WEwood, "Keeping forests healthy and happy keeps us healthy and happy, we like to keep our reminder on our wrist."

Now-a-days, It seems as if every company has some sort of charitable initiative (and with good reason). I would suggest that part of the reason has been a result of Tom's shoes, with their get-to-give program, where for every shoe bought, one pair is donated to those in need. Not only have charity initiatives given back to the community, but they have really been a driving force for sales. In the current economic landscape, brands are relying on some extra efforts in order to promote and sell their products, and taking a sophisticated sustainability approach has caught the attention of a widespread audience. For example, with the WEwood watch, not only do they cater to the fashion forward, hip young individual, but they also can sell to the eco-conscious consumer or tree huger. In short, brands are finding that having a focused cause can increase their bottom line, as well as look more attractive to retailers.

In WEwood’s case, by being an emblem of eco-luxury and design as well as committed to the health of our planet, they have found a recipe for success in today’s apparel/accessory market. And to the benefit of the consumer, timepieces range from only $119-139, which in the luxury watches market, is very inexpensive.

So in conclusion, the WEwood is another one of those brands that really catches my eye because they are really on to something. With so much competition in the apparel industry, those who can bring a product that is inspired, unique, sustainable, and cost effective will find success. Society has put a premium on companies who can deliver these things. There are too many companies that use the charity model as a front just to look appealing. In contrast, WEwood has a convincing initiative. They have a story behind their products, and the consumer can feel good about their purchase. WEwood lets us rediscover nature in its beauty, simplicity and design. And on the manufacturing front, WEwood's watches are completely absent of artificial and toxic materials, so the watches are as natural as your wrist. So check out some of these beauties below:

The Ampal Creative: Dreamed, Designed & Crafted in USA

The Ampal Creative - Made in LA from Ampal Creative on Vimeo.

You know that one article of clothing that you are really stoked on? It has to be a special occasion to whip it out. Or, maybe you are having an off day, and you put that thing on it makes you happy? Well, for most people, that "thing" is an Ampal Creative hat. Part sexy, part trendy, part classic, this brand has nailed it with making some fresh hats which are an absolute must in a guy's hat collection.

Everything from their marketing, design philosophy, and overall product from this Los Angeles brand is very fresh, unique, and well, creative. Not to mention, since 2010, they have manufactured their products in the USA, creating jobs in an industry that has dried up in since the early 2000s. More interestingly, at a time when the hat market seems to be very saturated with an abundance of brands, the Ampal still brings something different to the table: a collection of snapback/painters caps made with premium textiles and unique prints, which has developed a diverse following. Some of their offerings include a staple snapback hat, which has an 80s feel to it, which comes in a variety of prints ranging from floral, pin-up hawaiian girl, to tribal Aztec. They also bring some cool fabrications too their snapbacks as well, including a luxurious red corduroy, denim, and the traditional felt. If those don't do it for you, then maybe their dressier options, including a wide-backed fedora, traditional porkpie, and bowler, will. These classic molds look like they came from the 50s, but have a unique interpretation. For instance each hat comes with a double-sided strap with a dressier design on one side (think croc skin, full grain leather, etc) and a flashy one on the other (polka dots, patent leather, etc); they've also got a few different driver caps, ranging from a billowy dotted design to a grey and black checkered pattern to a worn-looking blue & purple, each of which has a front button embroidered into the pattern, allowing the hat to also be worn open like a captain's cap.

Ampal's attention to detail and quality construction cannot be overlooked either. Often, they find a single roll of deadstock material and make as many hats as they can from it. Not only does this allow them to hands on in the all the stages of development, but they are supporting local fabric businesses, as well as emplying apparel manufactures. It is a win win situation.

The video above gives you an inside look at the design and creative process, as well as an inside look on how the products get manufactured. It is really interesting to see something from start to finish. From idea, to concept, to design, to fabrication, to manufacturing, to final product, the stages of production are very lengthy, and often overlooked. So next time you are shopping, just think of how the garment you are looking at got there. It's a very complex, technical, and creative process, and I think few brands really do it well. The Ampal Creative is one of them.

Club Monaco: Made in the U.S.A.

Often times both consumers and apparel manufacturers overlook the benefits of production within our country. Some of these benefits are social, ethical, environmental, and economic. With so much manufacturing lost to overseas contractors, it is very satisfying to see the high-end clothing company, Club Monaco, launch a "Made in the U.S.A." collection in its stores in New York City's storied Fifth Avenue and its near-equivalent in Toronto, Canada, on Bloor Street. Here is a behind the scenes look at the manufacturing process, as well as the back-story of how this project came about. Enjoy:

As I mentioned earlier, there are many benefits to manufacturing within our borders. First of all, for the apparel manufacturer, you have much more control over your product from start to finish. For example, the advantage of being within close proximity to your factories allows the company more quality control, allowing them to look and feel the product throughout its manufacturing process. Producing in a factory in China, on the other hand, is much more of a gamble. You may not see you product you designed until 3 months after its inception. What if the hem isn’t right, or the waistband stitching? Anything can happen.

In addition, think about how many jobs an apparel manufacturer creates when producing domestically. Some of the necessary jobs performed are fabric mills, markers, graders, cutters, sewers, dye houses, packaging companies, etc etc. To give you some scope, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reported 154,700 apparel manufacturing jobs in the country as of September. Imagine if more apparel companies followed suit!

Moreover, the consumer is happier. Knowing that your clothing is made in America and your money is staying in the US is a much more satisfying feeling, not to mentioned the idea of craftsmanship, quality, and America is definitely catching on the fashion industry.

Products are more cleaned up, tailored, neat, traditional, and quality driven, something that America has always fostered.

In addition, there is an ethical benefit, which makes everyone feel good. Factories in the United States are rigorously regulated. Workers are paid a fair wage, and working conditions are far superior to the rest of the world. Imagine if the shirt you are wearing was made by a 12 year old girl trapped inside a basement in India, without food or water until she completes her quota. Pretty gnarly right? It happens.

Not to mention, producing domestically reduces the environmental impact. For instance, shipping from China via air or boat is very costly and has many negative consequences on our environment (oil, pollution, etc.). I could go on and on about how advantageous manufacturing apparel is in the US, but the bottom line is that our country needs to be more competitive with the rest of the world, and provide more incentives for doing so.

In the end, however, by producing here, everyone wins. Club Monaco is on the right track and has really helped our country and themselves out (think of all the good press they are getting out of this!). It's time for change: “Create Jobs, Buy American, Go America” (Alex Maine).

More Dopamine Please

The surf world is familiar with the work of Steve Gorrow, thanks to his award-winning advertising efforts with Aussie mod label Insight, which has to be my favorite label out there. Insight has got to be one of the most creative and innovative companies in the industry. I would like to shed some light on one of their recent creative advertising campaigns called Dopamine, which consists of some amazing underwater photography shots. They have been pushing the limits on their clothing and advertising campaigns, which have stimulated other surf companies to either boost their creative efforts, or get left behind in the dust.

In my opinion, the surf industry is very watered down. The over saturation of action sports companies that we have seen is a result of an onslaught of brands coming into the market in the early 2000s, which has changed the landscape of the industry. In addition, the big companies that have been doing it forever (Billabong, Quicksilver, O’Neil, Rusty, etc) have completely sold out to the mass market by selling anywhere and everywhere, diluting their brands and focusing on their bottom lines. The creative juice that the industry was found on has all but been dried up, and the core customers have been left with a half assed product that lacks any sort of story.

The industry is now dominated by corporate minds, and the primary reason why the top action sports athletes accept sponsorships from them is for the money (why else does Dane Reynolds ride for Quick?) Luckily, however, this has allowed smaller creative companies to enter into the market, and offer an alternative to the mass marketed crap we see on the shelves of Pac Sun. One of these brands that have been most successful is Insight, and they have fueled a revolution to create a product that is unique, fashion forward, and functional.

The tides have now turned if you will. Big corporate minded companies are struggling to keep up with these new alternative, fashion forward driven companies that are taking over the smaller market. In fact, from an extremely reputable source, I know that during Quicksilver’s marketing meetings, Insight is brought up frequently in order to set a creative and innovative standard on how to market their products. Not to knock Quicksilver or any other of the big brands, but it just further illustrates the types of changes that are taking place.

In my opinion, this is fantastic for the action sports and apparel industry. This will only weed out the companies that shouldn’t be in the market in the first place. This will clean up the mass produced, large volume product lines that we have seen the past 10 years. Brands are now focusing on their core products, and are not deviating from what they do best. The industry is also getting younger. The generation that have brought big brands this far is getting way to old to keep up with the most dynamic customer base in the apparel industry. Campaigns are getting more creative and are more focused.

And now, I would like to show you the creativity that Insight has brought to the industry. Here’s a little background on the Dopamine campaign:

The black and white photo series encapsulates interesting events both above and below the surface. Motorbikes, naked girls and interesting groups of people make the underwater scenes, captured together with talented surfers pulling tricks on the surface. Insight have really produced some mind blowing creative images here, check out “Dopamine” below:

Inside a Fine Fabric Mill

Have you ever wondered were your fine wool sweater has come from? Why is that blazer so damn comfortable? Why are the best wools woven in Italy? Today, I am going to take you inside an old Italian mill and give you a behind the scenes look to how things are made. This particular mill is located in Biella, a region that has been known for centuries for its fine textiles. It is a mill that Kitson works with, so given the quality of clothing they make, it’s probably safe to assume that this is one of Italy’s best mills.

It takes multiple steps to transform raw yarn into woven fabric. At this mill, the process begins by storing bobbins of yarn underground at a constant temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and a humidity level of 80%. These conditions ensure the yarns’ workability until they’re ready to be sent on through the successive stages of manufacturing.

Next is the warping process. This begins by unwinding the yarns and transferring them to beams, which will then be placed into the weaving looms. The worker prepares this process by twisting two threads together in order to make them stronger.

After the warping process is complete, the workers prepare the weaving looms. The beams, which are now filled with threads, are carefully inserted into combs and reeds. Each individual thread must be put into a reed, in the loop of the head, then in the tooth of the comb. The beam is now complete and ready to be loaded onto the loom.

These Italians got this down to a t. On the loom, warp threads are woven into weft threads, which form whatever pattern has been chosen for that particular fabric. Once the fabric has been woven, it is discharged from the loom and sent to the finishing stage.

During the finishing stage, the completed fabric is washed and dried depending on what the final look is supposed to be. Is it weathered, clean, dip dyed, subtle, and natural? These will determine the fabric’s look and feel to the hand.
 

Of course, quality control occurs thought this whole process. Thread counts are continually verified and the yard is regularly checked to ensure that is strong. In addition, the fabric is inspected to make sure it is free of defects. And once the garment is completed, you can bet your bottom dollar that it is inspected with the highest quality standards.

This process is very similar to what most clothing companies encounter when producing a garment. For example, loathing companies select fabrics for their designs, manufacturers work with fabrics to produce those designs, and the finished garments are sent to stores. People always remember the designers and retailers in this system. Maybe some people even think about the manufacturers. However, no one ever thinks of the mills, but it’s ironic because they determine the first thing we experience when we touch a garment. In short, this process needs to be known and appreciated.

Bally Celebrates 160 Years

I came across this ancient Swiss shoe company, Bally, that has documented their 160-year history in a You Tube video. It is so interesting to see how much impact one shoe company has had on society as well as the economy as a whole. Just to give some quick background, the Bally Shoe company was founded as "Bally & Co" high fashion in 1851 by Carl Franz Bally and his brother Fritz in the basement of their family home in Schönenwerd in the Canton of Solothurn, Switzerland. In 1854, a shoe factory was set up in the village, but Fritz Bally left the business and Carl Franz Bally carried on under the corporate name "C.F. Bally."

The company only skyrocketed from there. The company then went on to go public in 1907. The added capital allowed massive expansion for their much-in-demand shoes, and by 1916, they employed more than 7,000 people!

It is very interesting to see the corporate image of the company as well. As you can see from the company’s video, they depict their image as being a high fashion, high demand, and prestigious leather shoemaker. From their advertisements in magazines to their elaborate store displays and locations, Bally communicates their goal to be at the pinnacle of fine leather footwear across the globe.

However, what is also interesting is the juxtaposition of their clips of the behind the scenes manufacturing and fine detailing that goes into each shoe. There is so much that goes into making the shoe, so many knowledgeable people and skillful artisans who go unnoticed. We often get sidetracked by the fancy repackaged versions of consumer products so much, we loose site of the art which is involved at its inception.

In addition, another interesting discussion is how this company has managed to stay afloat for all these years. One of the most attributing factors and why I respect this company so much is because they got to where they are today because of their dedication to excellent finish, quality of the material and refined decoration. Nothing can stop Bally's evolution; the company constantly grows, reaching more and more markets.

It is not by chance either, that Bally is has reached such a large market. They do not cut corners, look for economies of scale, or skimp out on quality and rely on their name to make money. Instead, they follow the model of being your humble, quality shoe company as they have been in the 1800’s. The reason this grabs me so much is because in today’s culture, we see so many companies that are cutting costs and relying on the economies of scale they can get from manufacturing oversees such as in China, where fine needle work is cheap, and quantities are large. More interestingly, however, is how many apparel companies have tanked because of this heavy reliance of foreign manufacturing. We are seeing a trend of companies cutting back on volume, going back to their roots, and focusing on core products. Isn’t it about time we follow the Bally model?

The Trio

Hello World,

Let me paint you a picture from someone who’s been on the inside of the men’s fashion industry: The designer just got back from Fashion Week in New York. He’s been working on the upcoming Spring 2012 Line for months. The sketches are good and well thought out; it’s time to get moving. He goes to the depths of beautiful East Los Angeles to scour some fabric that will meet the specs of the new line. He enters a 4-story warehouse that keeps dead stock fabric from over a hundred years. Hardly anyone in there speaks English. He is only equipped with his pair of sewing scissors for swatches. After 4 hours of looking (nothing is in any sort of order or organized), including one hour in the dingy basement, he finds some of the fabric he’s looking for. He then goes on to hand make the patterns. That takes about one week (and maybe a year off your life to get it right) if you are lucky. Next, off to the cutting and assembling factory in Compton and Gardena (something you are wearing was probably constructed there). The factory says they are booked (shocker). You offer them more money. They say, "OK." 3 weeks go by and they haven’t touched your order. You need to ship to Nordstrom’s in 3 days! You run down to the factory and scold them. They finish the order the next day. The garments are then washed, treated, embellished, and packaged. You hope Nordstrom only sends back 15% of the order (anything more than %15 hurts the bottom line). I could go on and on! What about Rent, Marketing, PR, HR, Accounting, Finance, Customer Service, etc?!

I have just re-enacted the process I went through this past summer while working for a start up clothing company in Los Angeles. Working in the fashion industry is extremely hectic, but in the best way possible. To me, working in this stressful but exciting environment has been an awesome experience. I would have never guessed how diverse this industry is and how many different types of people are involved in the process. Producing a garment goes through so many stages. From idea on paper to finished product, there is a story that can be told throughout each stage of production. 

With this blog, I hope to shed some light on the brands out there that excel in the whole process. From design and manufacturing, to PR and Marketing, I will showcase the brands that have really caught my eye. I will focus on brands with a compelling story and a unique product offering, which are of high quality and demand. Creating a quality product from start to finish is not an easy process. There are a lot of creative minds and skillful hands that go into creating a product that will sell well. Think of me as your backstage pass to showing you the behind the scenes action of some really interesting brands and those who are setting the trends. However, I am not referring brands that you are most familiar with. What would be the point of telling you things you already know? Instead, I think it will be beneficial to both of us if I show you some brands and products that don't get all the attention. That being said, I will be taking the more artistic approach in order to paint pictures of some of the unique processes behind successful brands. 

This blog is an appreciation of the existence of clothing companies and all the rigors they face on a regular day basis. From the sketchbook, to the craftsman, to the consumer, so much goes into producing a quality piece. The blog will serve as an conversation and an academic tool to publicize real brands and people who have been doing it right for years. Fashion is not linear. It is moving, dynamic, art, grueling, technical, two-faced. It’s the balance of opposites.

A Continuous Lean

A Continuous Lean is a blog written by Michael Williams. Michael lives in New York City and works on the factory floor at Paul + Williams. He created this blog in 2007 as a discovery agent for those with an appreciation of quality, style and provenance. He focuses on American Made brands that are dedicated to producing quality pieces with a real story. Michael posts very frequently, and is always keeping the blog fresh with new and interesting content. Most recently, he commented on a long time hat maker called Quaker Marine Supply, which is a longtime nautical hat company which began life along the docks and piers of old Philadelphia in 1949. Instead of just posting a couple of pictures and telling the public where to buy the product, Michael comments on the history of the company and gives you a little bit of color. For example, he states:

“Hat maker Quaker Marine Supply seems to be something destined for “discovery” by your favorite local Americana loving menswear shop. Originally founded on the Philadelphia waterfront, the company has been making classic hats (mostly geared toward the seafaring set) in the U.S. since 1949.

The company changed ownership recently and relocated to Portland, Maine in 2003, though it continues to produce some seriously iconic cover — and for reasonable prices.”

This illustrates how detailed Michael’s posts are. He comments on the history of the company and its current situation, so the reader understands the background and significance of the company. The post also highlights how he supports American manufacturing, and the creation of jobs that it effectively creates.

To further quench his thirst for nostalgia, in another post, Michael comments on how the long time denim maker, Self Edge, purchased a 30 year old sewing machine to produce their jeans. He writes:

“The denim loving guys at Self Edge sent out an email this morning about their recently acquired almost-new Union Special 43200G chainstich machine. The lore of these Union Specials and their coveted status among denim-nerds is the stuff of legend — which makes the below story even more remarkable.

This is the machine the Japanese first scoured the world for starting in the 1980′s, they wanted them to place in their factories which reproduced vintage styles of American jeans from the 1950′s and before. It was a good twenty years until the rest of the world realized what was happening in Japan, by that time most of the 43200G machines had been bought up by the Japanese factories, brands, and retailers to put in their stores for in-store hemming.”

This is news to me. It is very refreshing to hear about companies using innovative technology to create their collection. There is something to be said about those brands. Creating a product that has so much detail, fine needlework, and a real story is what drives this brand to success. I enjoy how Michael shares with the public the manufacturing side of the fashion industry and the amount of imagination and technique that goes into it. In this post, Michael gives the reader a good perspective and the thought process of a clothing manufacturer.

I also think that the story about this machine provides remarkable insight to the denim industry as a whole. What people don’t realize, like many industries, Apparel is an EXTREMELY competitive industry, and it all starts with the machinery and tools. The Japanese have always been at the forefront of technology, and the 43200G machines have revolutionized many jean companies made constructed their garments. Short stories and behind the scenes information such as this, is what I really admire from this blog, and I hope to implement this perspective in my own posts.

Ever wondered how a cashmere sweater from Italy was made? Interested in viewing how a snap back hat was constructed in downtown LA? Want to know the ideas and process behind an award winning marketing campaign for a leading lifestyle clothing brand? I would like to explore these interests with my blog, and A Continuous Lean has provided me with a good template.

A Time To Get

Nick Maggio, writer of the high traffic fashion blog , “A Time to Get,” has a very distinctive voice in his posts. Although brief, Nick comments on many aspects of the fashion industry besides just upcoming lookbooks and fashion updates. For instance, the basis for his blog, or the way he describes it, really conveys his short, simple, and to the point manner. Here he describes his blog as:

A Time…

Not for this. Not for that. For everything in between. For work. For avoiding work. For inspiration. For a resource. For entertainment. For a minute. For an hour. The good, the bad, and yes, even the ugly. In a world that has no time for anything, there is always a time to give, and every now and again... a time to get.

In Nick’s introduction, he uses a very blunt and matter of fact voice in how he presents his blog to the world. His diction is non academic, and colloquial. For example, when he says “Not for this. Not for that,” we get a sense that Nick is just trying to be short, simple, and to the point, as if he is speaking to us directly. His short sentence structure and punctuation further highlight this fact. Moreover, he is almost poetic in conveying his purpose for the blog by starting off the first two sentences with what the blog is Not, and then telling us what the blog is For, in the next 8 sentences. This communicates his main intentions with his blog. He wants it to be something that you can rely on any time or day, no matter the premise. Maybe you are a designer and look to his blog for inspiration, or perhaps a student looking for a resource of information, or even someone at work just trying to kill some time and use it as a form of entertainment. Nick has all bases covered. If anything, his introduction makes me want read on because I like the simplicity. Simple is good.

Another example of how Nick’s voice in prevelant is in a recent post entitled “17, 18...” Here he says,

“For most of us, Day 19 has now become a household name. Despite what Jeremy and Claire think, I have personally been in a meeting where a client has referenced the "Day 19 look." As far as I'm concerned, that means you've made it. Well, we don't need some "suit" mentioning them to know they've made it... we just need to look at their recent work with Converse.

Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone. Day 19's FW '11 Converse campaign puts those to shame. A few of my favorites below, and the rest here. Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Here, Nick speaks to us like he knows us. Who is Jeremy and Claire? I don't know them, but I think that he is not afraid to share what's on his mind. 

In addition, we also come to understand that Nick is interested in companies that have a real story and put a lot of creative effort to sustain their brand equity. Evidence of this is revealed when Nick says, “Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone.” Clearly, Nick is interested in people who take pride in the aesthetic, and those who share a story or look through a different medium.

Lastly, we can see a little bit of humor in this post from the last lines,

“Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Nick is not afraid to tell it like it is. He is almost sarcastic in how he views what happened to his camera, but it is refreshing, because he is very upfront and conversational. We can see evidence when he uses everyday diction like “wanna” and short sentences like, “Broken. In the Street.” Consequently, the blog is an easy read that is both informative and entertaining.

Altogether, I really enjoy reading Nick’s short and a-matter-of-fact way of giving press to new and interesting ideas created by people in the fashion/apparel industry. I think his no BS outlook and content rich posts will relate to my blog posts in the future.

A Time to Get

Voice Post

Nick Maggio of the high traffic fashion blog called “A Time to Get,” has a very distinctive voice in his posts. Although brief, Nick comments on many aspects of the fashion industry besides just upcoming lookbooks and fashion updates. For instance, the basis for his blog, or the way he describes it, really conveys his short and simple manner. Here he describes his blog:

A Time…

Not for this. Not for that. For everything in between. For work. For avoiding work. For inspiration. For a resource. For entertainment. For a minute. For an hour. The good, the bad, and yes, even the ugly. In a world that has no time for anything, there is always a time to give, and every now and again... a time to get.

In Nick’s introduction, he uses a very blunt and “a matter of fact” voice in how he presents his blog to the world. His diction is non academic, and very colloquial. For example, when he says “Not for this. Not for that,” we get a sense that Nick is just trying to be short, simple, and to the point, as if he is speaking to us directly. Also, his short sentence structure and punctuation further highlight this fact. Furthermore, It seems as he is almost poetic in conveying his purpose for the blog by starting off the first two sentences with what the blog is Not, and then telling us what the blog is For, in the next 8 sentences. This really communicates his main intentions with his blog. He wants it to be something that you can go to any time or day, no matter the premise. Maybe you are a designer and look to his blog for inspiration, or maybe a student looking for a resource of information, or maybe at work or home just trying to kill some time and use it as a form of entertainment. Nick has all bases covered. If anything, his introduction makes me want read on because I like simple. Simple is good.

Another example of how Nick’s voice in prevelant is in a recent post entitled “17, 18...” Here he says,

For most of us, Day 19 has now become a household name. Despite what Jeremy and Claire think, I have personally been in a meeting where a client has referenced the "Day 19 look." As far as I'm concerned, that means you've made it. Well, we don't need some "suit" mentioning them to know they've made it... we just need to look at their recent work with Converse.

Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone. Day 19's FW '11 Converse campaign puts those to shame. A few of my favorites below, and the rest here. Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Here, Nick talks to us like he knows us. He uses the names “Jeremy” and “Claire” as if we know of them, but it is the first time in the blog that we see their names. I think that he is not afraid to tell us what is on his mind, and no matter what, the audience will listen.

In addition, we also come to understand that Nick is interested in companies that have a real story and put a lot of creative effort to sustain their brand equity. Evidence of this comes in when Nick says, “Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone.” He clearly is interested in people who take pride in the aesthetic, and tell a story far more than what is at the surface.

Lastly, we can see a little bit of humor in this post from the last lines,

“Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Nick is not afraid to tell it like it is. He is almost sarcastic in how he views what happened to his camera. He is very upfront and conversational. We can see evidence when he uses everyday diction like “wanna” and short sentences like, “Broken. In the Street.”

Altogether, I really enjoy reading Nick’s short and a-matter-of-fact way of giving press to new and interesting ideas created by people in the fashion/apparel industry. I think his no BS outlook and content rich posts will relate to my blog posts in the future.

Profile a Blog: A Continuous Lean

A Continuous Lean is a blog written by Michael Williams. Michael lives in New York City and works on the factory floor at Paul + Williams. He created this blog in 2007 as a discovery agent for those with an appreciation of quality, style and provenance. He focuses on American Made brands that are dedicated to producing quality pieces with a real story. Michael posts very frequently, and is always keeping the blog fresh with new and interesting content. Most recently, he commented on a long time hat maker called Quaker Marine Supply. Instead of just posting a couple of pictures and telling the public where to buy the product, Michael comments on the history of the company and gives you a little bit of color. For example, he states:

“Hat maker Quaker Marine Supply seems to be something destined for “discovery” by your favorite local Americana loving menswear shop. Originally founded on the Philadelphia waterfront, the company has been making classic hats (mostly geared toward the seafaring set) in the U.S. since 1946.”

“The company changed ownership recently and relocated to Portland, Maine in 2003, though it continues to produce some seriously iconic cover — and for reasonable prices.”

This illustrates how detailed Michael’s posts are. He comments on the history of the company and its current situation so the reader knows a little bit more than the company. The post also highlights the fact how he supports American manufacturing, and the creation of jobs that it effectively creates.

In another post, Michael comments on how the long time denim maker, Self Edge, purchased a 30 year old sewing machine to produce their jeans, and their reasons behind it:

“The denim loving guys at Self Edge sent out an email this morning about their recently acquired almost-new Union Special 43200G chainstich machine. The lore of these Union Specials and their coveted status among denim-nerds is the stuff of legend — which makes the below story even more remarkable.

“This is the machine the Japanese first scoured the world for starting in the 1980′s, they wanted them to place in their factories which reproduced vintage styles of American jeans from the 1950′s and before. It was a good twenty years until the rest of the world realized what was happening in Japan, by that time most of the 43200G machines had been bought up by the Japanese factories, brands, and retailers to put in their stores for in-store hemming.”

I really like this post. It is so new and refreshing to here about companies using innovative technology to create their collection. There is something to be said about those brands. Creating a product that has so much detail, fine needlework, and a real story is what drives this brand to success. I love how Michael shares with the public the manufacturing side of the fashion industry and the amount of imagination and technique that goes into it.

I also think that the story about this machine provides remarkable insight to the denim industry as a whole. What people don’t realize, like many industries, Apparel is an EXTREMELY competitive industry, and it all starts with the machinery and tools. The Japanese have always been at the forefront of technology, and the 43200G machines have revolutionized many jean companies made constructed their garments. Short stories and behind the scenes information is what I really admire from this blog, and I hope to implement this perspective in my own posts.

Hello World

Hello World,

Let me paint you a picture from someone who’s been on the inside of the men’s fashion industry: The designer just got back from Fashion Week in New York. He’s been working on the upcoming Spring 2012 Line for months. The sketches are good; it’s time to get moving. He goes to E. Los Angeles to scour some fabric. He enters a 4-story warehouse that keeps dead stock fabric from over a hundred years. Hardly anyone speaks English. He is only equipped with his pair of sewing scissors for swatches. After 4 hours of looking (nothing is in any sort of order or organized), including one hour in the basement, he finds some of the fabric he’s looking for. He then goes on to hand make the patterns. That takes one week (and maybe a year off your life to get it right). Off to the cutting and assembling factory in Compton and Gardena (something you are wearing was probably constructed there). The factory says they are booked. You offer them more money. They say OK. 3 weeks go by and they haven’t touched your order. You need to ship to Nordstrom’s in 3 days! You run down to the factory and scold them. They finish the order the next day. The garments are then washed, treated, embellished, and packaged. You hope Nordstrom only sends back 15% of the order. I could go on and on. What about Rent, Marketing, PR, HR, Accounting, Finance, Customer Service, etc?!

What I’m trying to show is how much credit people and brands need to get for producing such quality lines each and every season. I will mostly focus on men’s brands, since that is my specialty. After working for a start up upscale menswear brand for 3 grueling months this summer (It was just me, the designer, and the President), I have a new appreciation of how much goes into the fashion industry, and how only the brands with a compelling story, unique products, high quality, and a constant demand will survive in this extremely competitive landscape.

I will be commenting on the various brands and designers I find who I think shed some real light on what it means to be unique, innovative, and timeless. I also would like to converse about the manufacturing side, and how many hands it takes to create an actual garment. This blog is an appreciation of the designing and manufacturing of the fashion industry. From the sketchbook, to the craftsman, to the consumer, so much goes into producing a quality piece. This blog will serve as an academic tool to publicize real brands and people who have been doing it right for years.

The Trio

Enter Downtown Los Angeles: BUSY, noisy streets, smog, chaos, homeless people, crime, wealth, fashion, culture, you name it, LA has it. That being said, this cultural melting pot is home to some of the finest and diverse dining and culture in the world. Few cities can compare with the vast array of cuisine on any given street, at any given time. Not only that, but where else can you listen crazy Koreans argue while you are eating the best hand rolls on the west coast, stumble into a museum displaying one of Jackson Polluck's best works, and run into Lauren Conrad on your way to the fashion district (All in the proximity of 300 yards!).

The point is, few are able to enjoy and participate in the real Los Angelo experience. For instance, most people overlook the unparalleled dining experiences this great city has to offer because most eateries in LA are hard to find, or are only truly explored by true Angelos. Fortunately for you, I am opening and sharing the discussion with everyone, so that locals, tourists, and visitors alike can all eat at the same tables, enjoy the same food, and take an active roll in understanding the economics and culture of this great city.

For the past two years, I have made a strong effort to familiarize myself with downtown LA, and embrace the culture and the food as much as I could. I am not talking your typical dining experiences or visiting the tourist attractions that we all are familiar with. I'm talking about the unique dining experience and cultural experiences you get from eating the perfect Al-Pastor taco hot off the spit in the Pico Union, to the perfect piece of sashimi you will find on 1st and Beaudry. Not only that, but educating myself on the city itself: the job front, football in LA and its impact, the revitalization efforts, the numerous districts the city has, its ideal location, its challenges etc, etc.

As a result, I have not only have indulged and explored all best spots in LA, but I have observed and embraced a culture that is not even known to those who call LA home. But to sum it up, this blog is more than just a couple of cool food reviews and some neat spots to hit up; it’s a conversation of what goes on in this city, and how we should be informed in what’s taking place outside the bubble we call school and home.

Caroline on Crack

This week, I decided to focus on one of my favorite downtown bloggers, Caroline (from Caroline on Crack). She uses a very distinctive voice in each of her posts, and is very enthusiastic abut communicating the subject matter in a creative and interesting way. For example, when Caroline introduces a new restaurant/bar she explored, she describes hr experience in a very colloquial manner, saying:

Being a foodist, you get pretty particular…OK, anal about your restaurant experience. Does the server fill your water glass in a timely manner, does the waitress give you a five-minute warning before last call for happy hour,  how’s the price-to-portion ratio? So when I come across a restaurant where the overpriced food is less than stellar, the service horrible and the cocktails blah, I usually never return. Why would I when there are so many eateries in L.A. that actually hit all the marks?

 What really stood out to my in this brief introduction to Rosewood Tavern was her common, everyday diction she uses in order to paint a vivid picture of what her restaurant experiences are like. In addition, the repetition of questions makes the reader ask he or herself if he/she has ever been in a similar situation, urging them to dig deeper than just an ordinary culinary/dining experience. Instead, Caroline conveys a different dynamic. She uses bold text to highlight her key takeaway, which is when she will never return to a restaurant if they don't fit her criteria. Furthermore, when she uses "blah" instead of ECT, we get a sense that Caroline is passionate about her experiences and twill not accept anything less than perfection. Moreover, she is banking on her audience to know what she is talking about, and uses the colloquial phrases to great a casual conversation without being to critical.

In short, Caroline has a distinctive tone of being upfront and honest to her audience, and invites us the join the conversation in take part in her passion for food, drinks, and fun

Treasure LA

Treasure LA is a Los Angeles based food blog written by a food and culture enthusiast named Nick. The goal of Treasure LA is to highlight many of Los Angeles’s hidden treasures, as well as to remind Angelenos of why they should treasure this great city. Nick also argues that since our most precious resource is our time, the blog aims to help you make the most out of your limited time (and money).

I have come to expect detailed reviews of restaurants, food/drink, cultural landmarks, music, etc. I admire Nick’s enthusiasm on the subject, as it rivals mine, so I believe that this blog will be a great reference for content and information throughout the course of this calendar year. Nick does a great job of giving you more than just an RSS feed on fantastic dining and drinking options. Instead, he comments on his whole experience, from travel, arrival, dining experience, and the people who surround him. Consequently, the reader feels like he or she is actually taking part in the experience and further validates his claims and recommendations.

Furthermore, I think that Treasure LA will feed me blog by stimulating ideas and adventures of my own throughout the city. For example, Nick posts information on the latest tasting, events, and other culinary opportunities that are offered in downtown on a regular basis. His content rich/frequent posting gives me a good barometer of what I would like to accomplish in my blog.

Lastly, although Nick does a fantastic job with the creation of his blog, I want to go a step further with mine, and be a little more hands on, adventurous, and spur of the moment. I want to eat what the locals do, do what the locals do, and really get my hands dirty; and not to mention, I would like to add a drink dynamic to my blog, which will also open to discussion to all the great watering holes that our city has to offer, and the culture that is a product of it.

"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." -Virginia Woolf

Enter Downtown Los Angeles: busy, noisy streets, smog, chaos, homeless people, crime, wealth, fashion, culture, you name it, LA has it. That being said, this cultural meltingpot is home to some of the finest and diverse dining in the world. Few cities can compare with the vast array of cuisine on any given street, at any given time.

Unfortunately, however, most people overlook the unparalled dining experiences this great city has to offer because most eateries in LA are hard to find, or are only truly explored by true Angelos. Fortunately for you, I am opening the discussion to everyone, so that locals, tourists, and visitors alike can all eat at the same tables, and enjoy the food and culture throughout this city.

For the past two years, I have made a strong effort to familiarize myself with downtown LA, and embrace the culture and the food as much as I could. I am not talking about the fine dining experience that you can get from anywhere, I'm talking about the unique dining experience you get from eating the perfect Al-Pastor taco hot off the spit in the Pico Union, to the perfect piece of sashimi you will find on 1st and Beaudry.
 
As a result, I have not only have eaten to my hearts content, but I have observed and embraced a culture that is not even known to those who call LA home.