Inside a Fine Fabric Mill

Have you ever wondered were your fine wool sweater has come from? Why is that blazer so damn comfortable? Why are the best wools woven in Italy? Today, I am going to take you inside an old Italian mill and give you a behind the scenes look to how things are made. This particular mill is located in Biella, a region that has been known for centuries for its fine textiles. It is a mill that Kitson works with, so given the quality of clothing they make, it’s probably safe to assume that this is one of Italy’s best mills.

It takes multiple steps to transform raw yarn into woven fabric. At this mill, the process begins by storing bobbins of yarn underground at a constant temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and a humidity level of 80%. These conditions ensure the yarns’ workability until they’re ready to be sent on through the successive stages of manufacturing.

Next is the warping process. This begins by unwinding the yarns and transferring them to beams, which will then be placed into the weaving looms. The worker prepares this process by twisting two threads together in order to make them stronger.

After the warping process is complete, the workers prepare the weaving looms. The beams, which are now filled with threads, are carefully inserted into combs and reeds. Each individual thread must be put into a reed, in the loop of the head, then in the tooth of the comb. The beam is now complete and ready to be loaded onto the loom.

These Italians got this down to a t. On the loom, warp threads are woven into weft threads, which form whatever pattern has been chosen for that particular fabric. Once the fabric has been woven, it is discharged from the loom and sent to the finishing stage.

During the finishing stage, the completed fabric is washed and dried depending on what the final look is supposed to be. Is it weathered, clean, dip dyed, subtle, and natural? These will determine the fabric’s look and feel to the hand.
 

Of course, quality control occurs thought this whole process. Thread counts are continually verified and the yard is regularly checked to ensure that is strong. In addition, the fabric is inspected to make sure it is free of defects. And once the garment is completed, you can bet your bottom dollar that it is inspected with the highest quality standards.

This process is very similar to what most clothing companies encounter when producing a garment. For example, loathing companies select fabrics for their designs, manufacturers work with fabrics to produce those designs, and the finished garments are sent to stores. People always remember the designers and retailers in this system. Maybe some people even think about the manufacturers. However, no one ever thinks of the mills, but it’s ironic because they determine the first thing we experience when we touch a garment. In short, this process needs to be known and appreciated.