A True Global Citizen

Apolis Film: Apolis + Katin Film Release

Apolis Activism is a brand that I'm extremely familiar with. My older brother's good friends started the company a few years back, and basically never looked back. Apolis has seen some extraordinary success as of late, and as a result, They have been receiving the amount of PR a clothing brand could only dream of. None other than the likes of GQ, Esquire, Oprah (Yep), and other influentials have picked on Apolis to share with the world what they have been up to lately. Most notably, their social enterprise that equips and empowers people through opportunity instead of charity. They are far more than just another clothing brand. They are paving the way for other brands to take action in the global community and have a lasting impact, whether it be in a social initiative or manufacturing practice. To get a little taste of the companies mission, they state:

"Apolis co-creates products with manufacturers and directly allows the market to determine the future of each item we produce. It is a hands-on model to provide people access to opportunity. We call it "advocacy through industry."

For instance, each garment they produce, a story is told in either a blog post or video, documenting the process from raw material to finished good. It is the symbiotic relationship they have with the manufacturers in each geographic region they produce which makes their advocacy special. These partnerships not only allow them to ensure quality goods, but they also empower the individuals they do business with, as well the the surrounding community. Apolis, meaning "global citizen,"in Greek, truly lives up to it name with this philosophy. 


On the design side of things, they draw inspiration from classic menswear, California style, and the artisanal manufacturing techniques they have experienced during their travels. The result has been extremely well received, as they have addressed every man's word robe need in terms of quality, fit, comfort, style, and function. Combine that with ethical and fair sourcing practices, and you have a brand for everyone. 


Every item Apolis Activism produces can be traced back to its point of origin; be it Southern California, Nigeria or Nepal, and videos the company produces shows you the behinds the scenes footage of each initiative. My favorite video they have produced is the collaboration between longtime boardshort maker "Birdwell Beach-Britches" and Apolis. Here is a look Above of how the trunks were made by the brothers and the legendary seamstress Sato Hughes, in Newport Beach, CA.


For more pics, check out the ones below:

The Finest Quality since the 1900s

The story of Herschel begins in the early 1900’s, in Wick, Scotland. Peter Alexander Cormack, a barrel maker by trade, and his wife Annie packed the belongings of their small home in order to prepare for the long journey across the Atlantic to Canada. At the time, the government was enticing families to immigrate through the homestead program. They gave these families land to farm, to support the growth of the country. The land that Peter and Annie were given saw them settle in the beautiful hills outside of the town of Herschel, whose population today is about 30 residents strong.

Now, over a century after that move, Peter and Annie’s great grandchildren remain in the business of manufacturing. But, instead of barrels, backpacks and bags are now being created, and they are pretty good.

With that being said, there are plenty of bag companies out there in the market today. In the fact, the hand bag and accessories market is very competitive these days. However, the resurgence this modest hand bag brand from a sleepy town in Canada, has caught North America by storm with their latest collections. Their philosophy, however, is quite simple. Herschel Supply Co. was started with the goal of bringing well-designed quality built product to market. Inspiration is drawn from vintage mountaineering, American heritage, world travel and fashion. Herschel reinvents these products with modern shapes, fits and feels, with fine attention to detail. Herschel is all about the past, present and future, and they have created an environment that supports the new generation of fashion forward individuals, which many companies struggle to do so. So get used to this new brand, because they will be here for a while.

Take a few looks at some pictures off of their most recent look book. As you can see, Hershel combines very American, rugged, and vintage looks, with a taste of high fashion and contemporary coolness you would see on the streets here in LA. I bought my first bag awhile ago, and I have been nothing but impressed. The work quality is phenomenal. The zippers are made in America as well as the 20oz duck canvas and leather accents. Yep, good'ol American Mfg.

Dita: Hand Crafted in Japan

Not many optical companies can claim hand crafted anymore. The increase in technology on the manufacturing side has enabled apparel/accessories manufacturers to be more efficient and produce at economies of scale, thus, eliminating jobs and creative process on the way. In this new environment, to come a cross a company that does it the old fashioned way is a rarity. By no means am I knocking being more efficient and increasing a company's profits, but there is something to be said about the nostalgic brands who opt to stay true to traditional methods of production. The use of one's hands, low tech tools, and heavy machinery are nothing short of a lost art. It seems as no brands are raw anymore. Bring something new and interesting to the table. Well, Dita Eyewear, although not new, have done just that will their premium custom designed optics hand crafted in Japan. Yes, I may be a little bias because I just purchased my first pair of Dita's not too long ago, but they truly live up to the hype.

The story of Dita Eyewear is really the story of life long friends, Jeff Solorio and John Juniper, who co-founded Dita in 1996. They were inspired to translate their passion for film and photography into a different form. Thus, first creating their first collection the following year. Their niche is a good one. Dita's eyewear was inspired by vintage frames from the 50s through the 80s. However, to bring their added flare, they utilized modern materials and shapes in order to distinguish themselves with quality, look, and fit. Moreover, as a comment to the popular trends of the time, Dita's logo details are intentionally subtle so that the frame itself defines the look rather than the logo. By doing this, Dita allows the design of the frame to complement features of the wearer, instead of the opposite. This thinking was contrary to their time. For instance, in the late 90s all the way up until today, logos dominated the apparel industry. We are now seeing a shift into classic, subtle, and cleaner lines in toady's fashion. Dita was ahead of the curve, which speaks volumes to their design philosophy.

On the manufacturing front, their work speaks for itself. I mean I have never held or wore a sturdier or well made piece of eyewear before these. All Dita's frames are hand made in Japan and use only the finest Japanese zyl acetates. This quality and attention detail is even more apparent with the Rx frames, as they use custom designed titanium components and hardware with unique hex screws. Dita has modernized traditional rivet frame construction, and is setting the bar for eyewear construction. Its no wonder why they have built up an A-list clientele such as Brad Pitt, Jessica Simpson, Lenny Kravitz, and more.

Oh, and they avoid advertising campaigns, endorsement deals, and don't sell to mass merchants. Isn't that how It should be?

COMUNE Clothing: Just the right mix

Coming of age in a post-dot-com explosion world, COMUNE is part of a wave of apparel brands that have had an equal but opposite reaction to a hyper-technological, borderless world. Hence, the Southern California-based apparel company, which turns three years old this August, seeks inspiration from the local community and strives to deepen those connections with each of their collections.

With a focus on starkly colored denim, woven tops, hoodies and tees, the line has a utilitarian feel, while its design philosophy is rooted from the early 2000s streetwear movement and, to a greater degree, the simple lines and cuts associated with “Americana” brands, like Levi’s, Penfield and Carhartt. Prices range from $20 at retail for a cotton tee to $80 for an all-cotton, hooded jacket, all manufactured in China, Mexico and local LA factories. When asked about their brand, founder Sven Altmetz lays it down saying:

“We always wanted to have a really nice product we could wear and have our friends wear. From the start we have always found the market almost tells you what to do.”

In an apparel environment filled with ambitious young entrepreneurs hustling to transform a screened-tee part-time gig into a full-time cut-and-sewn–label career, COMUNE continues to stand out from the pack.  On the surface it may appear to be all about good times and creativity, but on the back end its serious about doing business, nurturing its relationships with some of the industry’s most influential retailers, including American Rag, the online retailer Karmaloop, Nordstrom, Oak NYC and Urban Outfitters. It also has a knack for delivering the right merchandise at the right point in time. Something that few brands manage to do correctly.

Furthermore, having established success in lower price points, per retail request, COMUNE has also begun offering a premium collection of American-made denim, plus leather jackets and boots, manufactured in Mexico. Jacob McCabe, creative director and designer, comments on the premium line stating:

“The premium line is just nicer quality. The jacket, the jeans and the boots, you can look at it and tell."

Having both a lower price point which makes retailers happy, as well as a premium line that caters to the more design/quality driven market, COMUNE is apple to capture two market at once. This type of business model is very foreign in todays climate, because brands are either focusing on one side of the spectrum.

In addition, all of this activity has necessitated a change of venue. In June, COMUNE moved its headquarters from Costa Mesa to a Los Angeles office loft housed in a former fish cannery factory, providing the young company and its 12 employees with more space to grow. The location, in the city’s Art District, is also fertile ground for inspiration, so much so, that COMUNE decided to launch a program to support local artists. For instance, COMUNE runs an artist residency program, which enables contributors to live on the brand’s campus while showing their art. As part of the program, the company formed the Drop City label, a thrice-yearly collection of tees created in collaboration with the artists who have exhibited in the gallery. Recently the space showcased the work of photographer Ray Gordon, whose image themes are “ bikes, hot rods, hot girls, and partied out dudes.”

Given that the company believes in connecting people to their passion, it seems fitting that COMUNE is going in a new direction, too. For example, in a brief few months, it has begun to strengthen its connections with the surrounding LA manufacturing community, which both creates jobs in a city in dire need of them, as well as provides them with unlimited inspiration and hands on production capabilities.

COMUNE is pushing to increase domestic production (by using cotton and fabrics milled here in Los Angeles), which can be thought of a lost art in the apparel industry today. Not only are they producing quality collections at a reasonable price point, they are working to improve the community, foster creativity, and have a great time in doing so. Quite frankly, that is the perfect mix.

Stade California is Here to Stay

Remember how great of a store The Closet was? Well don't worry; the owner of what once was The Closet, Billy Stade, just opened his new store, Stade Co, at South Coast Plaza. In the way that Billy made The Closet a staple for Southern California fashion, he has been successful in producing the same vibe for Stade Co. The store carries popular brands RVCA, Commune, OBEY, Oakley, and many, many more. Not only can you waste a lot of money on clothing here at this modern and fashion forward store, but you can also get your hair cut. Preme Hair is the salon in the back half of Stade Co, it is a state of the art salon that offers only the best in hair care and styling. Retailing like this sounds like a blast right? 

Now I would like to take the time to comment on the current state of retailing. First of all, I got my first taste of retailing this summer on none other than the famous shopping destination on Sunset and N. Crescent Heights road. And I can say with confidence that I don’t see a live-long career in it. For instance, imagine you sitting in a store for 8 hours without making one sale or even have a person stopping by for that matter. In today’s economic landscape, retailers are changing the way they do business. As a result, we are seeing an influx in more creative mixed-use types of stores in order to get customers in the door. Take Stade California for example. The concept store has a very diverse and eclectic product mix, as well as a hair salon. Stores are exercising their creative muscles in order to appeal to a wider audience, provide a comfortable shopping environment, and to ultimate boost profits.

Sounds easy enough, eh? Well, there is a reason why the Closet doesn’t exist anymore. After several good years, Billy Stade’s “Closet,” shut down for good this past year. Falling in the trap of rapid expansion, the Closet opened too many stores at the wrong time. On a macro level, the economic recession has crushed many upscale fashion retailers, which has forced them to either close up shop, or change their acts. To be honest, I think the recession was for the better for retailers because it has made the industry more competitive, which in turn is benefiting consumers. Stores can no longer get away with having a minimal product offering, or be able to charge exorbitant prices for mainstream garments. What we are seeing is retailers becoming more innovative, smarter, and younger. Out with the old, in with the new. Check out Stade California for yourself and see why they will be in business for awhile.

PacSun on the Right Track?!

Well, I never would have thought that I would ever do a post on the mainstream retailer, PacSun. In fact, to me, PacSun is one of the reasons why a lot of cool brands from LA and Orange County sell out. However, I do have to give them credit where credit is deserved. In this case, it comes in the form of their Holiday photo shoot that was recently done. I must say, they are on the right track in the sense that they are trying to differentiate themselves in the commercial action sports/lifestyle retailer landscape.

With the surge of action sports retailers catering to the mass public, which we have seen in the past decade, it has put more companies on the map than good. We have seen some of the best grassroots companies born and bred from California sell out to the mainstream mass market. For instance, take RVCA. They used to be a boutique company that was only worn by core surfers, musicians, and skaters. Now, I wince at the demographics that they have targeted. Moreover, lets look at Modern Amusement. Definitely the most innovative and unique company that existed in the early to mid 2000s. Now, after the split up of Jeff Yokoyama and Mossimo, we have had to endure the sell off to none other than our friends at PacSun. The point is, you can see my feeling about these types of mainstream retailers. They are all the same, and that’s what bugs me. If one of them would just be a little different. Flex those creative muscles, show me something new, give me a reason to like you. Well, after PacSun’s most recent Holiday photo shoot, they have given me a reason to like them for a little bit.

So, lets take you behind the scenes of their latest photoshoot. To give some background, a small group of friends “headed out to a vast span of desert to indulge in the winter madness, California style.” With a subtle blend of summer staples and fresh winter add-ons, they ventured through the mountainous terrain of Palm Springs. It was 115 degrees in the desert, and models were wearing parkas and beanies (I hope they weren’t bitchy). Shots were taken in the day, at night, on mountains, in cars, etc. The photo filters and lighting turned out fantastic. It’s almost looking at a designer clothing company’s look-book. The photo shoot has it all. Risky, colorful, vibrant, different. Props to you PacSun. Nice Job. Check out some of the photos below: