A True Global Citizen

Apolis Film: Apolis + Katin Film Release

Apolis Activism is a brand that I'm extremely familiar with. My older brother's good friends started the company a few years back, and basically never looked back. Apolis has seen some extraordinary success as of late, and as a result, They have been receiving the amount of PR a clothing brand could only dream of. None other than the likes of GQ, Esquire, Oprah (Yep), and other influentials have picked on Apolis to share with the world what they have been up to lately. Most notably, their social enterprise that equips and empowers people through opportunity instead of charity. They are far more than just another clothing brand. They are paving the way for other brands to take action in the global community and have a lasting impact, whether it be in a social initiative or manufacturing practice. To get a little taste of the companies mission, they state:

"Apolis co-creates products with manufacturers and directly allows the market to determine the future of each item we produce. It is a hands-on model to provide people access to opportunity. We call it "advocacy through industry."

For instance, each garment they produce, a story is told in either a blog post or video, documenting the process from raw material to finished good. It is the symbiotic relationship they have with the manufacturers in each geographic region they produce which makes their advocacy special. These partnerships not only allow them to ensure quality goods, but they also empower the individuals they do business with, as well the the surrounding community. Apolis, meaning "global citizen,"in Greek, truly lives up to it name with this philosophy. 


On the design side of things, they draw inspiration from classic menswear, California style, and the artisanal manufacturing techniques they have experienced during their travels. The result has been extremely well received, as they have addressed every man's word robe need in terms of quality, fit, comfort, style, and function. Combine that with ethical and fair sourcing practices, and you have a brand for everyone. 


Every item Apolis Activism produces can be traced back to its point of origin; be it Southern California, Nigeria or Nepal, and videos the company produces shows you the behinds the scenes footage of each initiative. My favorite video they have produced is the collaboration between longtime boardshort maker "Birdwell Beach-Britches" and Apolis. Here is a look Above of how the trunks were made by the brothers and the legendary seamstress Sato Hughes, in Newport Beach, CA.


For more pics, check out the ones below:

The Finest Quality since the 1900s

The story of Herschel begins in the early 1900’s, in Wick, Scotland. Peter Alexander Cormack, a barrel maker by trade, and his wife Annie packed the belongings of their small home in order to prepare for the long journey across the Atlantic to Canada. At the time, the government was enticing families to immigrate through the homestead program. They gave these families land to farm, to support the growth of the country. The land that Peter and Annie were given saw them settle in the beautiful hills outside of the town of Herschel, whose population today is about 30 residents strong.

Now, over a century after that move, Peter and Annie’s great grandchildren remain in the business of manufacturing. But, instead of barrels, backpacks and bags are now being created, and they are pretty good.

With that being said, there are plenty of bag companies out there in the market today. In the fact, the hand bag and accessories market is very competitive these days. However, the resurgence this modest hand bag brand from a sleepy town in Canada, has caught North America by storm with their latest collections. Their philosophy, however, is quite simple. Herschel Supply Co. was started with the goal of bringing well-designed quality built product to market. Inspiration is drawn from vintage mountaineering, American heritage, world travel and fashion. Herschel reinvents these products with modern shapes, fits and feels, with fine attention to detail. Herschel is all about the past, present and future, and they have created an environment that supports the new generation of fashion forward individuals, which many companies struggle to do so. So get used to this new brand, because they will be here for a while.

Take a few looks at some pictures off of their most recent look book. As you can see, Hershel combines very American, rugged, and vintage looks, with a taste of high fashion and contemporary coolness you would see on the streets here in LA. I bought my first bag awhile ago, and I have been nothing but impressed. The work quality is phenomenal. The zippers are made in America as well as the 20oz duck canvas and leather accents. Yep, good'ol American Mfg.

Dita: Hand Crafted in Japan

Not many optical companies can claim hand crafted anymore. The increase in technology on the manufacturing side has enabled apparel/accessories manufacturers to be more efficient and produce at economies of scale, thus, eliminating jobs and creative process on the way. In this new environment, to come a cross a company that does it the old fashioned way is a rarity. By no means am I knocking being more efficient and increasing a company's profits, but there is something to be said about the nostalgic brands who opt to stay true to traditional methods of production. The use of one's hands, low tech tools, and heavy machinery are nothing short of a lost art. It seems as no brands are raw anymore. Bring something new and interesting to the table. Well, Dita Eyewear, although not new, have done just that will their premium custom designed optics hand crafted in Japan. Yes, I may be a little bias because I just purchased my first pair of Dita's not too long ago, but they truly live up to the hype.

The story of Dita Eyewear is really the story of life long friends, Jeff Solorio and John Juniper, who co-founded Dita in 1996. They were inspired to translate their passion for film and photography into a different form. Thus, first creating their first collection the following year. Their niche is a good one. Dita's eyewear was inspired by vintage frames from the 50s through the 80s. However, to bring their added flare, they utilized modern materials and shapes in order to distinguish themselves with quality, look, and fit. Moreover, as a comment to the popular trends of the time, Dita's logo details are intentionally subtle so that the frame itself defines the look rather than the logo. By doing this, Dita allows the design of the frame to complement features of the wearer, instead of the opposite. This thinking was contrary to their time. For instance, in the late 90s all the way up until today, logos dominated the apparel industry. We are now seeing a shift into classic, subtle, and cleaner lines in toady's fashion. Dita was ahead of the curve, which speaks volumes to their design philosophy.

On the manufacturing front, their work speaks for itself. I mean I have never held or wore a sturdier or well made piece of eyewear before these. All Dita's frames are hand made in Japan and use only the finest Japanese zyl acetates. This quality and attention detail is even more apparent with the Rx frames, as they use custom designed titanium components and hardware with unique hex screws. Dita has modernized traditional rivet frame construction, and is setting the bar for eyewear construction. Its no wonder why they have built up an A-list clientele such as Brad Pitt, Jessica Simpson, Lenny Kravitz, and more.

Oh, and they avoid advertising campaigns, endorsement deals, and don't sell to mass merchants. Isn't that how It should be?

COMUNE Clothing: Just the right mix

Coming of age in a post-dot-com explosion world, COMUNE is part of a wave of apparel brands that have had an equal but opposite reaction to a hyper-technological, borderless world. Hence, the Southern California-based apparel company, which turns three years old this August, seeks inspiration from the local community and strives to deepen those connections with each of their collections.

With a focus on starkly colored denim, woven tops, hoodies and tees, the line has a utilitarian feel, while its design philosophy is rooted from the early 2000s streetwear movement and, to a greater degree, the simple lines and cuts associated with “Americana” brands, like Levi’s, Penfield and Carhartt. Prices range from $20 at retail for a cotton tee to $80 for an all-cotton, hooded jacket, all manufactured in China, Mexico and local LA factories. When asked about their brand, founder Sven Altmetz lays it down saying:

“We always wanted to have a really nice product we could wear and have our friends wear. From the start we have always found the market almost tells you what to do.”

In an apparel environment filled with ambitious young entrepreneurs hustling to transform a screened-tee part-time gig into a full-time cut-and-sewn–label career, COMUNE continues to stand out from the pack.  On the surface it may appear to be all about good times and creativity, but on the back end its serious about doing business, nurturing its relationships with some of the industry’s most influential retailers, including American Rag, the online retailer Karmaloop, Nordstrom, Oak NYC and Urban Outfitters. It also has a knack for delivering the right merchandise at the right point in time. Something that few brands manage to do correctly.

Furthermore, having established success in lower price points, per retail request, COMUNE has also begun offering a premium collection of American-made denim, plus leather jackets and boots, manufactured in Mexico. Jacob McCabe, creative director and designer, comments on the premium line stating:

“The premium line is just nicer quality. The jacket, the jeans and the boots, you can look at it and tell."

Having both a lower price point which makes retailers happy, as well as a premium line that caters to the more design/quality driven market, COMUNE is apple to capture two market at once. This type of business model is very foreign in todays climate, because brands are either focusing on one side of the spectrum.

In addition, all of this activity has necessitated a change of venue. In June, COMUNE moved its headquarters from Costa Mesa to a Los Angeles office loft housed in a former fish cannery factory, providing the young company and its 12 employees with more space to grow. The location, in the city’s Art District, is also fertile ground for inspiration, so much so, that COMUNE decided to launch a program to support local artists. For instance, COMUNE runs an artist residency program, which enables contributors to live on the brand’s campus while showing their art. As part of the program, the company formed the Drop City label, a thrice-yearly collection of tees created in collaboration with the artists who have exhibited in the gallery. Recently the space showcased the work of photographer Ray Gordon, whose image themes are “ bikes, hot rods, hot girls, and partied out dudes.”

Given that the company believes in connecting people to their passion, it seems fitting that COMUNE is going in a new direction, too. For example, in a brief few months, it has begun to strengthen its connections with the surrounding LA manufacturing community, which both creates jobs in a city in dire need of them, as well as provides them with unlimited inspiration and hands on production capabilities.

COMUNE is pushing to increase domestic production (by using cotton and fabrics milled here in Los Angeles), which can be thought of a lost art in the apparel industry today. Not only are they producing quality collections at a reasonable price point, they are working to improve the community, foster creativity, and have a great time in doing so. Quite frankly, that is the perfect mix.

Stade California is Here to Stay

Remember how great of a store The Closet was? Well don't worry; the owner of what once was The Closet, Billy Stade, just opened his new store, Stade Co, at South Coast Plaza. In the way that Billy made The Closet a staple for Southern California fashion, he has been successful in producing the same vibe for Stade Co. The store carries popular brands RVCA, Commune, OBEY, Oakley, and many, many more. Not only can you waste a lot of money on clothing here at this modern and fashion forward store, but you can also get your hair cut. Preme Hair is the salon in the back half of Stade Co, it is a state of the art salon that offers only the best in hair care and styling. Retailing like this sounds like a blast right? 

Now I would like to take the time to comment on the current state of retailing. First of all, I got my first taste of retailing this summer on none other than the famous shopping destination on Sunset and N. Crescent Heights road. And I can say with confidence that I don’t see a live-long career in it. For instance, imagine you sitting in a store for 8 hours without making one sale or even have a person stopping by for that matter. In today’s economic landscape, retailers are changing the way they do business. As a result, we are seeing an influx in more creative mixed-use types of stores in order to get customers in the door. Take Stade California for example. The concept store has a very diverse and eclectic product mix, as well as a hair salon. Stores are exercising their creative muscles in order to appeal to a wider audience, provide a comfortable shopping environment, and to ultimate boost profits.

Sounds easy enough, eh? Well, there is a reason why the Closet doesn’t exist anymore. After several good years, Billy Stade’s “Closet,” shut down for good this past year. Falling in the trap of rapid expansion, the Closet opened too many stores at the wrong time. On a macro level, the economic recession has crushed many upscale fashion retailers, which has forced them to either close up shop, or change their acts. To be honest, I think the recession was for the better for retailers because it has made the industry more competitive, which in turn is benefiting consumers. Stores can no longer get away with having a minimal product offering, or be able to charge exorbitant prices for mainstream garments. What we are seeing is retailers becoming more innovative, smarter, and younger. Out with the old, in with the new. Check out Stade California for yourself and see why they will be in business for awhile.

PacSun on the Right Track?!

Well, I never would have thought that I would ever do a post on the mainstream retailer, PacSun. In fact, to me, PacSun is one of the reasons why a lot of cool brands from LA and Orange County sell out. However, I do have to give them credit where credit is deserved. In this case, it comes in the form of their Holiday photo shoot that was recently done. I must say, they are on the right track in the sense that they are trying to differentiate themselves in the commercial action sports/lifestyle retailer landscape.

With the surge of action sports retailers catering to the mass public, which we have seen in the past decade, it has put more companies on the map than good. We have seen some of the best grassroots companies born and bred from California sell out to the mainstream mass market. For instance, take RVCA. They used to be a boutique company that was only worn by core surfers, musicians, and skaters. Now, I wince at the demographics that they have targeted. Moreover, lets look at Modern Amusement. Definitely the most innovative and unique company that existed in the early to mid 2000s. Now, after the split up of Jeff Yokoyama and Mossimo, we have had to endure the sell off to none other than our friends at PacSun. The point is, you can see my feeling about these types of mainstream retailers. They are all the same, and that’s what bugs me. If one of them would just be a little different. Flex those creative muscles, show me something new, give me a reason to like you. Well, after PacSun’s most recent Holiday photo shoot, they have given me a reason to like them for a little bit.

So, lets take you behind the scenes of their latest photoshoot. To give some background, a small group of friends “headed out to a vast span of desert to indulge in the winter madness, California style.” With a subtle blend of summer staples and fresh winter add-ons, they ventured through the mountainous terrain of Palm Springs. It was 115 degrees in the desert, and models were wearing parkas and beanies (I hope they weren’t bitchy). Shots were taken in the day, at night, on mountains, in cars, etc. The photo filters and lighting turned out fantastic. It’s almost looking at a designer clothing company’s look-book. The photo shoot has it all. Risky, colorful, vibrant, different. Props to you PacSun. Nice Job. Check out some of the photos below:

A Watch For Everyone

Started by the baby of an Italian shoemaker who loves watches and two eco-smart entrepreneurs with a crush on the environment, WEwood fashions wooden timepieces from mostly scrap-wood and uses state-of-the-art Miyota movements for the guts, resulting in a unique watch that's good-looking, earth-friendly, and splash-proof.

The first timepiece was designed in Florence, Italy (2010) and with the widespread craving for newstalgia and eco-friendly ethos, WEwood hit the scene as the avant-garde approach to sophisticated sustainability. A few months later, WEwood opened a branch in Los Angeles, CA and teamed up with tree-planting-partner, American Forests.

With this pact, the goal is to help restore Mother Nature, one watch at a time, by planting a tree for every WEwood watch purchased. In the first three months, WEwood planted 5,000 trees with American Forests, and sets challenging targets for 2011 and beyond. According to WEwood, "Keeping forests healthy and happy keeps us healthy and happy, we like to keep our reminder on our wrist."

Now-a-days, It seems as if every company has some sort of charitable initiative (and with good reason). I would suggest that part of the reason has been a result of Tom's shoes, with their get-to-give program, where for every shoe bought, one pair is donated to those in need. Not only have charity initiatives given back to the community, but they have really been a driving force for sales. In the current economic landscape, brands are relying on some extra efforts in order to promote and sell their products, and taking a sophisticated sustainability approach has caught the attention of a widespread audience. For example, with the WEwood watch, not only do they cater to the fashion forward, hip young individual, but they also can sell to the eco-conscious consumer or tree huger. In short, brands are finding that having a focused cause can increase their bottom line, as well as look more attractive to retailers.

In WEwood’s case, by being an emblem of eco-luxury and design as well as committed to the health of our planet, they have found a recipe for success in today’s apparel/accessory market. And to the benefit of the consumer, timepieces range from only $119-139, which in the luxury watches market, is very inexpensive.

So in conclusion, the WEwood is another one of those brands that really catches my eye because they are really on to something. With so much competition in the apparel industry, those who can bring a product that is inspired, unique, sustainable, and cost effective will find success. Society has put a premium on companies who can deliver these things. There are too many companies that use the charity model as a front just to look appealing. In contrast, WEwood has a convincing initiative. They have a story behind their products, and the consumer can feel good about their purchase. WEwood lets us rediscover nature in its beauty, simplicity and design. And on the manufacturing front, WEwood's watches are completely absent of artificial and toxic materials, so the watches are as natural as your wrist. So check out some of these beauties below:

The Ampal Creative: Dreamed, Designed & Crafted in USA

The Ampal Creative - Made in LA from Ampal Creative on Vimeo.

You know that one article of clothing that you are really stoked on? It has to be a special occasion to whip it out. Or, maybe you are having an off day, and you put that thing on it makes you happy? Well, for most people, that "thing" is an Ampal Creative hat. Part sexy, part trendy, part classic, this brand has nailed it with making some fresh hats which are an absolute must in a guy's hat collection.

Everything from their marketing, design philosophy, and overall product from this Los Angeles brand is very fresh, unique, and well, creative. Not to mention, since 2010, they have manufactured their products in the USA, creating jobs in an industry that has dried up in since the early 2000s. More interestingly, at a time when the hat market seems to be very saturated with an abundance of brands, the Ampal still brings something different to the table: a collection of snapback/painters caps made with premium textiles and unique prints, which has developed a diverse following. Some of their offerings include a staple snapback hat, which has an 80s feel to it, which comes in a variety of prints ranging from floral, pin-up hawaiian girl, to tribal Aztec. They also bring some cool fabrications too their snapbacks as well, including a luxurious red corduroy, denim, and the traditional felt. If those don't do it for you, then maybe their dressier options, including a wide-backed fedora, traditional porkpie, and bowler, will. These classic molds look like they came from the 50s, but have a unique interpretation. For instance each hat comes with a double-sided strap with a dressier design on one side (think croc skin, full grain leather, etc) and a flashy one on the other (polka dots, patent leather, etc); they've also got a few different driver caps, ranging from a billowy dotted design to a grey and black checkered pattern to a worn-looking blue & purple, each of which has a front button embroidered into the pattern, allowing the hat to also be worn open like a captain's cap.

Ampal's attention to detail and quality construction cannot be overlooked either. Often, they find a single roll of deadstock material and make as many hats as they can from it. Not only does this allow them to hands on in the all the stages of development, but they are supporting local fabric businesses, as well as emplying apparel manufactures. It is a win win situation.

The video above gives you an inside look at the design and creative process, as well as an inside look on how the products get manufactured. It is really interesting to see something from start to finish. From idea, to concept, to design, to fabrication, to manufacturing, to final product, the stages of production are very lengthy, and often overlooked. So next time you are shopping, just think of how the garment you are looking at got there. It's a very complex, technical, and creative process, and I think few brands really do it well. The Ampal Creative is one of them.

Club Monaco: Made in the U.S.A.

Often times both consumers and apparel manufacturers overlook the benefits of production within our country. Some of these benefits are social, ethical, environmental, and economic. With so much manufacturing lost to overseas contractors, it is very satisfying to see the high-end clothing company, Club Monaco, launch a "Made in the U.S.A." collection in its stores in New York City's storied Fifth Avenue and its near-equivalent in Toronto, Canada, on Bloor Street. Here is a behind the scenes look at the manufacturing process, as well as the back-story of how this project came about. Enjoy:

As I mentioned earlier, there are many benefits to manufacturing within our borders. First of all, for the apparel manufacturer, you have much more control over your product from start to finish. For example, the advantage of being within close proximity to your factories allows the company more quality control, allowing them to look and feel the product throughout its manufacturing process. Producing in a factory in China, on the other hand, is much more of a gamble. You may not see you product you designed until 3 months after its inception. What if the hem isn’t right, or the waistband stitching? Anything can happen.

In addition, think about how many jobs an apparel manufacturer creates when producing domestically. Some of the necessary jobs performed are fabric mills, markers, graders, cutters, sewers, dye houses, packaging companies, etc etc. To give you some scope, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reported 154,700 apparel manufacturing jobs in the country as of September. Imagine if more apparel companies followed suit!

Moreover, the consumer is happier. Knowing that your clothing is made in America and your money is staying in the US is a much more satisfying feeling, not to mentioned the idea of craftsmanship, quality, and America is definitely catching on the fashion industry.

Products are more cleaned up, tailored, neat, traditional, and quality driven, something that America has always fostered.

In addition, there is an ethical benefit, which makes everyone feel good. Factories in the United States are rigorously regulated. Workers are paid a fair wage, and working conditions are far superior to the rest of the world. Imagine if the shirt you are wearing was made by a 12 year old girl trapped inside a basement in India, without food or water until she completes her quota. Pretty gnarly right? It happens.

Not to mention, producing domestically reduces the environmental impact. For instance, shipping from China via air or boat is very costly and has many negative consequences on our environment (oil, pollution, etc.). I could go on and on about how advantageous manufacturing apparel is in the US, but the bottom line is that our country needs to be more competitive with the rest of the world, and provide more incentives for doing so.

In the end, however, by producing here, everyone wins. Club Monaco is on the right track and has really helped our country and themselves out (think of all the good press they are getting out of this!). It's time for change: “Create Jobs, Buy American, Go America” (Alex Maine).

More Dopamine Please

The surf world is familiar with the work of Steve Gorrow, thanks to his award-winning advertising efforts with Aussie mod label Insight, which has to be my favorite label out there. Insight has got to be one of the most creative and innovative companies in the industry. I would like to shed some light on one of their recent creative advertising campaigns called Dopamine, which consists of some amazing underwater photography shots. They have been pushing the limits on their clothing and advertising campaigns, which have stimulated other surf companies to either boost their creative efforts, or get left behind in the dust.

In my opinion, the surf industry is very watered down. The over saturation of action sports companies that we have seen is a result of an onslaught of brands coming into the market in the early 2000s, which has changed the landscape of the industry. In addition, the big companies that have been doing it forever (Billabong, Quicksilver, O’Neil, Rusty, etc) have completely sold out to the mass market by selling anywhere and everywhere, diluting their brands and focusing on their bottom lines. The creative juice that the industry was found on has all but been dried up, and the core customers have been left with a half assed product that lacks any sort of story.

The industry is now dominated by corporate minds, and the primary reason why the top action sports athletes accept sponsorships from them is for the money (why else does Dane Reynolds ride for Quick?) Luckily, however, this has allowed smaller creative companies to enter into the market, and offer an alternative to the mass marketed crap we see on the shelves of Pac Sun. One of these brands that have been most successful is Insight, and they have fueled a revolution to create a product that is unique, fashion forward, and functional.

The tides have now turned if you will. Big corporate minded companies are struggling to keep up with these new alternative, fashion forward driven companies that are taking over the smaller market. In fact, from an extremely reputable source, I know that during Quicksilver’s marketing meetings, Insight is brought up frequently in order to set a creative and innovative standard on how to market their products. Not to knock Quicksilver or any other of the big brands, but it just further illustrates the types of changes that are taking place.

In my opinion, this is fantastic for the action sports and apparel industry. This will only weed out the companies that shouldn’t be in the market in the first place. This will clean up the mass produced, large volume product lines that we have seen the past 10 years. Brands are now focusing on their core products, and are not deviating from what they do best. The industry is also getting younger. The generation that have brought big brands this far is getting way to old to keep up with the most dynamic customer base in the apparel industry. Campaigns are getting more creative and are more focused.

And now, I would like to show you the creativity that Insight has brought to the industry. Here’s a little background on the Dopamine campaign:

The black and white photo series encapsulates interesting events both above and below the surface. Motorbikes, naked girls and interesting groups of people make the underwater scenes, captured together with talented surfers pulling tricks on the surface. Insight have really produced some mind blowing creative images here, check out “Dopamine” below:

Inside a Fine Fabric Mill

Have you ever wondered were your fine wool sweater has come from? Why is that blazer so damn comfortable? Why are the best wools woven in Italy? Today, I am going to take you inside an old Italian mill and give you a behind the scenes look to how things are made. This particular mill is located in Biella, a region that has been known for centuries for its fine textiles. It is a mill that Kitson works with, so given the quality of clothing they make, it’s probably safe to assume that this is one of Italy’s best mills.

It takes multiple steps to transform raw yarn into woven fabric. At this mill, the process begins by storing bobbins of yarn underground at a constant temperature of 18 degrees Celsius and a humidity level of 80%. These conditions ensure the yarns’ workability until they’re ready to be sent on through the successive stages of manufacturing.

Next is the warping process. This begins by unwinding the yarns and transferring them to beams, which will then be placed into the weaving looms. The worker prepares this process by twisting two threads together in order to make them stronger.

After the warping process is complete, the workers prepare the weaving looms. The beams, which are now filled with threads, are carefully inserted into combs and reeds. Each individual thread must be put into a reed, in the loop of the head, then in the tooth of the comb. The beam is now complete and ready to be loaded onto the loom.

These Italians got this down to a t. On the loom, warp threads are woven into weft threads, which form whatever pattern has been chosen for that particular fabric. Once the fabric has been woven, it is discharged from the loom and sent to the finishing stage.

During the finishing stage, the completed fabric is washed and dried depending on what the final look is supposed to be. Is it weathered, clean, dip dyed, subtle, and natural? These will determine the fabric’s look and feel to the hand.
 

Of course, quality control occurs thought this whole process. Thread counts are continually verified and the yard is regularly checked to ensure that is strong. In addition, the fabric is inspected to make sure it is free of defects. And once the garment is completed, you can bet your bottom dollar that it is inspected with the highest quality standards.

This process is very similar to what most clothing companies encounter when producing a garment. For example, loathing companies select fabrics for their designs, manufacturers work with fabrics to produce those designs, and the finished garments are sent to stores. People always remember the designers and retailers in this system. Maybe some people even think about the manufacturers. However, no one ever thinks of the mills, but it’s ironic because they determine the first thing we experience when we touch a garment. In short, this process needs to be known and appreciated.

Bally Celebrates 160 Years

I came across this ancient Swiss shoe company, Bally, that has documented their 160-year history in a You Tube video. It is so interesting to see how much impact one shoe company has had on society as well as the economy as a whole. Just to give some quick background, the Bally Shoe company was founded as "Bally & Co" high fashion in 1851 by Carl Franz Bally and his brother Fritz in the basement of their family home in Schönenwerd in the Canton of Solothurn, Switzerland. In 1854, a shoe factory was set up in the village, but Fritz Bally left the business and Carl Franz Bally carried on under the corporate name "C.F. Bally."

The company only skyrocketed from there. The company then went on to go public in 1907. The added capital allowed massive expansion for their much-in-demand shoes, and by 1916, they employed more than 7,000 people!

It is very interesting to see the corporate image of the company as well. As you can see from the company’s video, they depict their image as being a high fashion, high demand, and prestigious leather shoemaker. From their advertisements in magazines to their elaborate store displays and locations, Bally communicates their goal to be at the pinnacle of fine leather footwear across the globe.

However, what is also interesting is the juxtaposition of their clips of the behind the scenes manufacturing and fine detailing that goes into each shoe. There is so much that goes into making the shoe, so many knowledgeable people and skillful artisans who go unnoticed. We often get sidetracked by the fancy repackaged versions of consumer products so much, we loose site of the art which is involved at its inception.

In addition, another interesting discussion is how this company has managed to stay afloat for all these years. One of the most attributing factors and why I respect this company so much is because they got to where they are today because of their dedication to excellent finish, quality of the material and refined decoration. Nothing can stop Bally's evolution; the company constantly grows, reaching more and more markets.

It is not by chance either, that Bally is has reached such a large market. They do not cut corners, look for economies of scale, or skimp out on quality and rely on their name to make money. Instead, they follow the model of being your humble, quality shoe company as they have been in the 1800’s. The reason this grabs me so much is because in today’s culture, we see so many companies that are cutting costs and relying on the economies of scale they can get from manufacturing oversees such as in China, where fine needle work is cheap, and quantities are large. More interestingly, however, is how many apparel companies have tanked because of this heavy reliance of foreign manufacturing. We are seeing a trend of companies cutting back on volume, going back to their roots, and focusing on core products. Isn’t it about time we follow the Bally model?

The Trio

Hello World,

Let me paint you a picture from someone who’s been on the inside of the men’s fashion industry: The designer just got back from Fashion Week in New York. He’s been working on the upcoming Spring 2012 Line for months. The sketches are good and well thought out; it’s time to get moving. He goes to the depths of beautiful East Los Angeles to scour some fabric that will meet the specs of the new line. He enters a 4-story warehouse that keeps dead stock fabric from over a hundred years. Hardly anyone in there speaks English. He is only equipped with his pair of sewing scissors for swatches. After 4 hours of looking (nothing is in any sort of order or organized), including one hour in the dingy basement, he finds some of the fabric he’s looking for. He then goes on to hand make the patterns. That takes about one week (and maybe a year off your life to get it right) if you are lucky. Next, off to the cutting and assembling factory in Compton and Gardena (something you are wearing was probably constructed there). The factory says they are booked (shocker). You offer them more money. They say, "OK." 3 weeks go by and they haven’t touched your order. You need to ship to Nordstrom’s in 3 days! You run down to the factory and scold them. They finish the order the next day. The garments are then washed, treated, embellished, and packaged. You hope Nordstrom only sends back 15% of the order (anything more than %15 hurts the bottom line). I could go on and on! What about Rent, Marketing, PR, HR, Accounting, Finance, Customer Service, etc?!

I have just re-enacted the process I went through this past summer while working for a start up clothing company in Los Angeles. Working in the fashion industry is extremely hectic, but in the best way possible. To me, working in this stressful but exciting environment has been an awesome experience. I would have never guessed how diverse this industry is and how many different types of people are involved in the process. Producing a garment goes through so many stages. From idea on paper to finished product, there is a story that can be told throughout each stage of production. 

With this blog, I hope to shed some light on the brands out there that excel in the whole process. From design and manufacturing, to PR and Marketing, I will showcase the brands that have really caught my eye. I will focus on brands with a compelling story and a unique product offering, which are of high quality and demand. Creating a quality product from start to finish is not an easy process. There are a lot of creative minds and skillful hands that go into creating a product that will sell well. Think of me as your backstage pass to showing you the behind the scenes action of some really interesting brands and those who are setting the trends. However, I am not referring brands that you are most familiar with. What would be the point of telling you things you already know? Instead, I think it will be beneficial to both of us if I show you some brands and products that don't get all the attention. That being said, I will be taking the more artistic approach in order to paint pictures of some of the unique processes behind successful brands. 

This blog is an appreciation of the existence of clothing companies and all the rigors they face on a regular day basis. From the sketchbook, to the craftsman, to the consumer, so much goes into producing a quality piece. The blog will serve as an conversation and an academic tool to publicize real brands and people who have been doing it right for years. Fashion is not linear. It is moving, dynamic, art, grueling, technical, two-faced. It’s the balance of opposites.

A Continuous Lean

A Continuous Lean is a blog written by Michael Williams. Michael lives in New York City and works on the factory floor at Paul + Williams. He created this blog in 2007 as a discovery agent for those with an appreciation of quality, style and provenance. He focuses on American Made brands that are dedicated to producing quality pieces with a real story. Michael posts very frequently, and is always keeping the blog fresh with new and interesting content. Most recently, he commented on a long time hat maker called Quaker Marine Supply, which is a longtime nautical hat company which began life along the docks and piers of old Philadelphia in 1949. Instead of just posting a couple of pictures and telling the public where to buy the product, Michael comments on the history of the company and gives you a little bit of color. For example, he states:

“Hat maker Quaker Marine Supply seems to be something destined for “discovery” by your favorite local Americana loving menswear shop. Originally founded on the Philadelphia waterfront, the company has been making classic hats (mostly geared toward the seafaring set) in the U.S. since 1949.

The company changed ownership recently and relocated to Portland, Maine in 2003, though it continues to produce some seriously iconic cover — and for reasonable prices.”

This illustrates how detailed Michael’s posts are. He comments on the history of the company and its current situation, so the reader understands the background and significance of the company. The post also highlights how he supports American manufacturing, and the creation of jobs that it effectively creates.

To further quench his thirst for nostalgia, in another post, Michael comments on how the long time denim maker, Self Edge, purchased a 30 year old sewing machine to produce their jeans. He writes:

“The denim loving guys at Self Edge sent out an email this morning about their recently acquired almost-new Union Special 43200G chainstich machine. The lore of these Union Specials and their coveted status among denim-nerds is the stuff of legend — which makes the below story even more remarkable.

This is the machine the Japanese first scoured the world for starting in the 1980′s, they wanted them to place in their factories which reproduced vintage styles of American jeans from the 1950′s and before. It was a good twenty years until the rest of the world realized what was happening in Japan, by that time most of the 43200G machines had been bought up by the Japanese factories, brands, and retailers to put in their stores for in-store hemming.”

This is news to me. It is very refreshing to hear about companies using innovative technology to create their collection. There is something to be said about those brands. Creating a product that has so much detail, fine needlework, and a real story is what drives this brand to success. I enjoy how Michael shares with the public the manufacturing side of the fashion industry and the amount of imagination and technique that goes into it. In this post, Michael gives the reader a good perspective and the thought process of a clothing manufacturer.

I also think that the story about this machine provides remarkable insight to the denim industry as a whole. What people don’t realize, like many industries, Apparel is an EXTREMELY competitive industry, and it all starts with the machinery and tools. The Japanese have always been at the forefront of technology, and the 43200G machines have revolutionized many jean companies made constructed their garments. Short stories and behind the scenes information such as this, is what I really admire from this blog, and I hope to implement this perspective in my own posts.

Ever wondered how a cashmere sweater from Italy was made? Interested in viewing how a snap back hat was constructed in downtown LA? Want to know the ideas and process behind an award winning marketing campaign for a leading lifestyle clothing brand? I would like to explore these interests with my blog, and A Continuous Lean has provided me with a good template.

A Time To Get

Nick Maggio, writer of the high traffic fashion blog , “A Time to Get,” has a very distinctive voice in his posts. Although brief, Nick comments on many aspects of the fashion industry besides just upcoming lookbooks and fashion updates. For instance, the basis for his blog, or the way he describes it, really conveys his short, simple, and to the point manner. Here he describes his blog as:

A Time…

Not for this. Not for that. For everything in between. For work. For avoiding work. For inspiration. For a resource. For entertainment. For a minute. For an hour. The good, the bad, and yes, even the ugly. In a world that has no time for anything, there is always a time to give, and every now and again... a time to get.

In Nick’s introduction, he uses a very blunt and matter of fact voice in how he presents his blog to the world. His diction is non academic, and colloquial. For example, when he says “Not for this. Not for that,” we get a sense that Nick is just trying to be short, simple, and to the point, as if he is speaking to us directly. His short sentence structure and punctuation further highlight this fact. Moreover, he is almost poetic in conveying his purpose for the blog by starting off the first two sentences with what the blog is Not, and then telling us what the blog is For, in the next 8 sentences. This communicates his main intentions with his blog. He wants it to be something that you can rely on any time or day, no matter the premise. Maybe you are a designer and look to his blog for inspiration, or perhaps a student looking for a resource of information, or even someone at work just trying to kill some time and use it as a form of entertainment. Nick has all bases covered. If anything, his introduction makes me want read on because I like the simplicity. Simple is good.

Another example of how Nick’s voice in prevelant is in a recent post entitled “17, 18...” Here he says,

“For most of us, Day 19 has now become a household name. Despite what Jeremy and Claire think, I have personally been in a meeting where a client has referenced the "Day 19 look." As far as I'm concerned, that means you've made it. Well, we don't need some "suit" mentioning them to know they've made it... we just need to look at their recent work with Converse.

Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone. Day 19's FW '11 Converse campaign puts those to shame. A few of my favorites below, and the rest here. Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Here, Nick speaks to us like he knows us. Who is Jeremy and Claire? I don't know them, but I think that he is not afraid to share what's on his mind. 

In addition, we also come to understand that Nick is interested in companies that have a real story and put a lot of creative effort to sustain their brand equity. Evidence of this is revealed when Nick says, “Every now and again I come across a photo campaign that nails it -- tells the story -- and all with the images alone.” Clearly, Nick is interested in people who take pride in the aesthetic, and those who share a story or look through a different medium.

Lastly, we can see a little bit of humor in this post from the last lines,

“Oh, you wanna know where my camera is right now? Broken. In the street.”

Nick is not afraid to tell it like it is. He is almost sarcastic in how he views what happened to his camera, but it is refreshing, because he is very upfront and conversational. We can see evidence when he uses everyday diction like “wanna” and short sentences like, “Broken. In the Street.” Consequently, the blog is an easy read that is both informative and entertaining.

Altogether, I really enjoy reading Nick’s short and a-matter-of-fact way of giving press to new and interesting ideas created by people in the fashion/apparel industry. I think his no BS outlook and content rich posts will relate to my blog posts in the future.